Suspension Parts with Fitting Position Front and Rear

Car suspension has one job, which is keeping the tyres in contact with the road at the angle they work best. Everything bolted underneath the car exists to serve that, and the moment any of it stops doing its part, the tyres stop doing theirs.

This is the full Whiteline range, covering the suspension components that control geometry, roll, ride height and compliance.

What Each Part Is Actually Doing

It helps to separate the jobs, because people tend to lump car suspension parts together and then wonder why one purchase did not fix everything.

Springs carry the weight and set the ride height. Dampers control how quickly the springs move and settle. Bushes decide how much the mounting points are allowed to deflect under load. Arms set the geometry and hold the wheel where the alignment put it. Anti roll bars control how much the body leans relative to the wheels.

Those are five different problems. A car that wallows has a damper and spring problem. A car that wanders and will not hold an alignment has a bush and arm problem. A car that leans and takes an age to settle has a bar problem. Diagnosing which one you actually have saves buying the wrong thing twice.

Why Factory Parts Run Out of Range

Manufacturers specify car suspension around a vehicle at standard ride height, on standard tyres, carrying standard loads, driven in a way that keeps most owners comfortable.

Change any of those and the factory parts are working outside their brief. Lower the car and camber goes negative while the arms swing through a different part of their arc. Raise it and caster washes off. Fit grippier tyres and the bushes deflect further because there is more load going through them. Add weight for touring or towing and the springs sit compressed before you have gone anywhere.

Factory bushes make it worse over time. Rubber is chosen for quietness rather than control, so it deflects under load even when new, then perishes and cracks with heat cycling and oil exposure until the geometry moves every time you brake or turn.

That is the gap a suspension upgrade fills, whether that is a performance car or a 4WD suspension upgrade for touring and towing. You are not fixing something broken, you are replacing parts that were specified for a car you no longer have.

Where to Start on a Car That Has Never Been Touched

The order matters more than the individual parts, and getting it wrong is how people spend money without feeling much.

Start with what has worn out. Perished bushes and tired dampers are not an upgrade, they are a repair, and no amount of new hardware bolted on top will compensate for them. A car with soft bushes cannot hold an alignment, so nothing you do to the geometry will stay where you set it.

Then set the geometry. Once the mounting points are holding, an alignment is worth having, and if the car has been lowered or raised you may need arms or offset bushes to give the aligner range it does not otherwise have.

Then tune the balance. Anti roll bars are where you decide whether the car understeers or rotates, and they only deliver their rate once the bushes and links underneath them are tight.

Bracing comes last. Once everything else is holding, the structure becomes the next thing giving way, and a brace fitted before the rest is sorted will not make up for any of it.

What the Range Covers

Polyurethane suspension bushes across every position on the car, from control arm bushes and anti roll bar bushes through to leaf spring, trailing arm, radius arm and panhard rod positions, in single kits, grouped front and rear kits and complete vehicle kits.

Suspension arms including control arms, camber and toe arms, radius arms and trailing arms, in fixed and adjustable forms, with correction built in for cars whose ride height has changed.

Anti roll bars in fixed and adjustable versions, front, rear and matched sets, along with the links, brackets, mounts and service kits that let them work.

Springs covering lowering kits with published front and rear rates, raised coil springs for load and clearance, and leaf spring components including greasable shackles, pins and U-bolts.

Chassis bracing including strut braces, cross braces and support braces for the structure it all bolts to.

Alignment correction hardware for the cars that have run out of factory adjustment.

Getting the Order Right at Install

A few things apply to almost everything on this page.

Torque suspension bushes with the car on its wheels at ride height rather than hanging on a hoist. Whatever position a bush is clamped in becomes its neutral position, so one tightened at full droop spends its life twisted and binds from the first kilometre. More new parts are ruined by this than by anything else.

Grease polyurethane on assembly with a silicone or PTFE based lubricant rather than a lithium or petroleum based one, which can degrade the material over time.

Get a wheel alignment after anything that changes ride height, removes play from an arm, or alters a mounting point. That covers most of the range, and driving away unaligned wastes a good part of what you just fitted.

Do both sides. A fresh part working against a tired one on the other side leaves the car behaving differently left to right, which is worse than having both worn.

Find Suspension Parts for Your Vehicle

Shop by category, from suspension springs and struts and shock absorbers to alignment parts, anti roll bar links and performance suspension kits.

Select your vehicle to see the car suspension parts and 4WD suspension parts available for it, whether you are chasing sharper handling on a performance car, load capacity and control on a 4WD, or simply replacing factory components that have had enough. Every Whiteline component is backed by our warranty, a fitment guarantee and 30 day returns.