Individual Upper Control Arms
IMPROVE GRIP, HANDLING & PERFORMANCE.
These are single upper control arms rather than pairs, supplied for the side and position they suit, with the bushes and ball joint already fitted. They are repair parts. One arm has worn out or been damaged, the other has not, and there is no sense buying two. Why a Single Upper Arm Is Often the Right Buy Upper control arms fail differently to ... Read more
These are single upper control arms rather than pairs, supplied for the side and position they suit, with the bushes and ball joint already fitted.
They are repair parts. One arm has worn out or been damaged, the other has not, and there is no sense buying two.
Why a Single Upper Arm Is Often the Right Buy
Upper control arms fail differently to lower ones, and it works in your favour here.
The upper arm carries less vertical load than the lower, because the spring usually sits on the lower arm. What it takes is cornering and steering load, fed through a ball joint that is typically smaller than the one underneath. That makes the ball joint the part that gives up first on most of these arms, and the arm itself is frequently still perfectly sound when it does.
Ball joints fail one at a time far more often than bushes do. A boot splits on one side, water and grit get into the socket, the grease washes out, and that joint is finished while the other one is still sealed and doing fine. Perished bushes tend to arrive as a pair because they age together, but a torn boot is usually a single event on a single corner.
So on an upper arm, one side needing replacement while the other is genuinely healthy is a normal outcome rather than an unusual one.
When You Still Need a Pair
That said, there are cases where two is the answer.
If both boots are split, both joints have play, or the bushes are cracked and squeezed out on both sides, you are looking at age rather than a single failure and both arms are due.
If the vehicle has covered high kilometres on original arms and one has just failed, the other is unlikely to be far behind. The car is already up, the alignment is already being paid for, and adding the second arm now costs far less than a separate visit later.
And if you are correcting geometry rather than repairing wear, you always do both. More on that below.
Repair Arms, Not Correction Arms
Worth being clear, because both get called upper control arms and they are bought for completely different reasons.
The arms in this range are direct replacements built to factory geometry. They go on a vehicle sitting at standard ride height and restore the alignment it is supposed to have. That is what you want when a ball joint has failed, a boot has torn, the bushes have perished or the arm has been damaged.
Geometry correction arms are a different purchase entirely. Those have offset built into them to recover camber and caster on a raised vehicle, and they are always fitted as a pair because a corrected arm working against a factory one gives you two different geometries and an alignment nobody can balance.
If you are here because of a lift kit and an alignment the shop cannot bring into specification, a fixed offset or adjustable upper control arm is the part you need, not a standard replacement. A replacement arm puts the geometry back exactly where the lift already moved it.
What Arrives Assembled
Each arm comes with Whiteline synthetic elastomer bushes pressed in and a ball joint fitted where the application uses an integral one. The listing states what is included.
That matters more than it sounds. Pressing bushes and ball joints out of an upper control arm takes a press, correct diameter tooling and a fair amount of time, and the risk of damaging the arm in the process is genuine. Plenty of people weigh that up and decide it is hard to justify.
A complete arm turns the whole thing into a remove and replace. The only specialist tool you need is a ball joint separator.
The bushes are the other half of it. Factory rubber deflects under load even when new and gets worse as it hardens, so an arm running synthetic elastomer bushes holds the geometry where the alignment set it rather than only when the vehicle is parked.
Getting the Side and Position Right
Order by side and position rather than by eye. Left and right upper control arms can look near identical in a photograph and be entirely different parts, and rear upper control arms are listed separately from front ones since they do a different job.
Work out which corner you need before ordering. If a ball joint has failed, the tell is usually obvious once the vehicle is in the air, with play at that corner and often a split boot or grease thrown around the inside of the wheel.
Signs It Is One Arm Rather Than Two
- Play at one upper ball joint with the other still tight
- A split or torn boot on one side with the other intact
- Grease thrown inside one wheel arch and not the other
- Knocking from one corner over bumps, consistent to that side
- One side reading out of specification on the alignment printout
- Tyre wear noticeably worse on one front corner
- Visible damage to one arm after an impact
- A previous repair that already replaced the opposite arm
If both sides show the same symptoms at similar levels, that is age and you are looking at a pair.
Fitting and Alignment
A complete arm bolts into the factory mounting locations and arrives assembled, so this is a spanner job.
Support the vehicle and take the load off the suspension before separating the ball joint, since a joint under spring load releases suddenly. Use a proper ball joint separator rather than a hammer, which damages the hub bore and the stud threads.
Torque the inner fasteners with the vehicle back on its wheels at ride height rather than hanging at full droop. Whatever position a bush is clamped in becomes its neutral position, so an arm torqued at droop spends its life twisted and binds from the first kilometre.
Get a wheel alignment afterwards. Replacing an upper arm changes camber and caster immediately, and when you have only done one side the alignment is what confirms the two sides now match each other.
Find Individual Upper Control Arms for Your Vehicle
Fresh control arm bushes are worth fitting to the opposite side at the same time.
Select your vehicle to see the single arms available for it, and check each listing for the side and position it suits along with whether a ball joint is included. Every Whiteline component is backed by our warranty, a fitment guarantee and 30 day returns.
1 item
- SKU: WA402 Benefit Note:
Most would agree that the time and stress to remove and replace bushings and ball joints to suspension arms can be hard to justify. Making up press tools and damaging arms are just two of the problems one can endure. Why put yourself through it when you can purchase complete arms, fitted with market leading Whiteline synthetic elastomer bushings and premium quality ball joints (if applicable).Rear Control Arm Upper - Arm to Suit Ford Focus, Mazda3 and Volvo C30, S40
ℹ️ Replacement and repair upgradeEnsures long-lasting durability, matter matter the purpose; the perfect, complete upgrade. Includes: 1 ArmIn StockShips within 48hrs.Ships within 48hrs.Qty Required 1Kit Contents 1 Arm€78.69
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