Alignment Parts

Wheel alignment is where grip is won or lost. Every other upgrade on the car is working through the contact patch, and geometry decides how much of that patch is actually on the road.

Whiteline alignment parts give you adjustment the factory never provided, and they hold those settings under load instead of letting them drift.

What Is Camber and Why It Matters

Camber is the angle of the wheel when you look at the car from the front.

Negative camber tilts the top of the tire inward. Positive camber tilts it outward, and zero camber stands the wheel perfectly vertical.

The reason it matters is what happens in a corner. As the car loads up and the body rolls, the outside wheel pushes toward positive camber, which lifts the inside edge of the tire off the road and shrinks the contact patch at the exact moment you need it most.

Running some static negative camber compensates for that. The wheel starts tilted in, rolls toward upright under cornering load, and arrives flat on the road with the full tread working.

Too much and you give up straight line braking and wear the inner edge. Too little and the tire rolls onto its outer shoulder mid corner. The right number depends on the car, the tires and whether you are chasing street manners or lap times.

What Is Caster and Why Enthusiasts Add It

Caster is the angle of the steering axis viewed from the side of the car, and it is the setting enthusiasts understand least.

Picture the line running through the upper and lower pivot points of the front suspension. Tilt the top of that line rearward and you have positive caster.

Positive caster is what makes the steering self center after a corner. It also adds negative camber to the outside wheel as you turn, which is free grip exactly where you want it, without the straight line downsides of dialing in more static camber.

More caster gives you stronger straight line stability, better turn in feel and more steering weight. The trade off is heavier parking effort, which on a performance car is a price most drivers are happy to pay.

Factory caster is usually set conservatively for light steering. Adding caster is one of the most effective handling changes available, and it is exactly what offset caster bushings are built to deliver.

What Is a Camber Kit

A camber kit is any hardware that lets you change camber on a car that either has no factory adjustment or has run out of range.

Most cars leave the factory with very little camber adjustment built in, because the manufacturer set it once and never expected it to change. Lower the car, fit wider wheels or start tracking it and that fixed setting is suddenly wrong.

Camber kits come in several different forms, and a camber caster kit covers both angles at once. Camber bolts replace the standard strut to hub bolt with an eccentric version. Offset bushings move the control arm pivot point. Camber plates replace the strut top mount with an adjustable one.

Which one suits depends on the car's suspension design and how much correction you need. A front camber kit and a rear camber kit are usually different products, since the two ends adjust in different ways.

Camber Bolts and How Much Adjustment They Give

A camber bolt looks like an ordinary bolt with an offset cam machined into it. Rotate the bolt and the cam pushes the hub, changing the angle of the wheel.

Whiteline adjustable camber bolts deliver plus or minus 1.5 degrees of camber change, supplied as a camber adjustment kit of two so you can do both sides of the front axle. Rear camber bolts work the same way where a platform supports them.

That 1.5 degree range covers the majority of situations. Correcting a car that has drifted out of spec, dialing in negative camber after lowering, or buying camber bolts for alignment on a platform that never had any adjustment to begin with.

A camber bolt kit is the most cost effective way into camber adjustment, and on a lot of cars a set of camber adjustment bolts is all you need.

Camber Bolt Sizes From 12mm to 17mm

Sizing is by bolt diameter and it has to match the hole in the strut fork exactly.

Whiteline camber bolts are offered in 12mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm and 17mm, which covers the overwhelming majority of enthusiast platforms.

Measure the original bolt rather than guessing, since a 14mm and a 15mm are easy to confuse by eye and the wrong one either will not fit or will leave the joint able to move.

Check whether your car has already had camber bolts fitted at some point, because a previous owner chasing an alignment may have changed the hardware without telling anyone.

How to Adjust Camber Bolts

The adjustment itself is straightforward, and the measuring is what takes the time.

Loosen the nut enough to let the bolt rotate, but not enough for the whole joint to shift on its own.

Rotate the bolt and watch the camber reading change. The cam moves the hub through its full range across roughly half a turn, so small movements matter.

Hold the bolt against rotation while you torque the nut, otherwise the setting moves as you tighten it.

Do it with the car on an alignment rack at ride height with normal load in it, not with the suspension hanging, because the reading changes completely once the weight is back on the wheels.

Mark the bolt position once you are happy, so you have a reference if anything ever moves.

How to Adjust Camber Without Camber Bolts

Worth knowing, because camber bolts are not the only route and not always the best one.

Offset control arm bushings move the inner pivot of the arm, which changes both camber and caster depending on how the offset is oriented. These give a different range to a bolt and work on cars where the strut fork has no room for an eccentric.

Camber plates replace the strut top mount with an adjustable one, moving the top of the strut inboard or outboard. This gives the widest range and suits track cars chasing serious negative camber.

Adjustable control arms replace the arm entirely with a length adjustable version, which is common for rear camber on multi link cars.

Some platforms also have slotted mounting points or eccentric hardware from the factory, and the first step is always finding out what your car already has.

Offset Caster Bushings and Anti Lift Camber Kits

This is where Whiteline does something most alignment hardware does not.

Offset caster bushings replace the standard control arm or strut rod bushing with one where the center sleeve sits off center. Install it in the right orientation and the arm's pivot point moves, adding caster without touching anything else.

Single offset bushings deliver a moderate change in caster. Double offset versions push further for platforms that need more correction or more aggressive setup.

Anti lift kits take that same idea considerably further. By moving the pivot point to change the suspension's anti lift geometry, they reduce how much the nose rises under acceleration and how much it dives under braking.

The result is a car that stays flatter through weight transfer, keeps its geometry more consistent, and puts power down with less of the front end unloading. On a fast road or track car that is a bigger handling gain than the camber number alone suggests.

Both are built in high durometer synthetic elastomer rather than soft factory rubber, so the setting holds under load instead of deflecting away.

Caster Camber Plates and Offset Strut Mounts

Where the strut top is the right place to make the change, an offset strut mount does both jobs at once.

A Whiteline caster camber kit in strut mount form relocates the top of the strut, adjusting both angles in a single part and replacing a wear item at the same time.

Factory strut mounts contain soft rubber that compresses under load. As it deflects, the top of the strut moves, which means the alignment you paid for is not the alignment the car has mid corner.

A performance mount holds that point firmly, so the geometry stays where it was set. The trade off is more road noise into the cabin, which is the usual exchange for precision.

Front and Rear Camber Adjustment

Front camber adjustment is the more common requirement, and it is where the Whiteline alignment parts range is focused.

Front alignment affects steering feel, turn in and how the car behaves under braking, and it is also where most lowered cars go out of specification first.

Rear camber adjustment matters on multi link platforms, where lowering pulls the rear wheels into significant negative camber and eats the inner edges of the tires.

Whiteline addresses rear geometry through control arms and bushings rather than through this category, so check the control arm and bushing ranges for rear correction.

Signs Your Car Needs Alignment Parts

• The car has been lowered and camber is now out of specification
• Uneven tire wear on the inner or outer edge
• Steering that feels vague, or that does not self center properly
• An alignment shop reporting they need a camber kit for alignment because a setting will not come into range
• Chasing more front end grip for track or fast road use
• The car pulling to one side with no obvious fault
• Suspension work that has disturbed the original geometry
• Factory bushings that have deflected enough to let settings drift

Uneven inner edge wear after lowering is the most common trigger, and it is the one that costs the most if ignored, since a set of tires costs more than the hardware that would have saved them.

Find Whiteline Alignment Parts for Your Vehicle

Select your vehicle to see the camber bolts, offset caster bushings, anti lift kits and caster camber plates available for it. Get the alignment done properly once the parts are fitted, since adjustment hardware only pays off when the settings are measured and set on a rack. Every part ships within 24 hours and is backed by our 30 day returns and a US based support team.